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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.